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Skincare Formulation Framework-The Seven Formula Systems

October 2, 2023

With so many skincare products on the market, it can be overwhelming to know which one to choose.The real difference between skincare products boils down to their formulations!Today, I’ll give you a brief overview to help you understand the key ingredients in your skincare products. Antioxidant SystemThe antioxidant system in skincare products prevents the oxidation and degradation of certain ingredients, primarily oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Emulsification SystemNormally, water and oil don’t mix, so to stabilize them, a "third party" is needed—something that bonds with both water and oil, which is the emulsifier. Our skin can often lack both water and oil, and this is where emulsifiers play a crucial role in stabilizing the formula. Depending on the type of emulsification system, the stability and texture of the skincare product can vary. Generally, water-in-oil formulas are more moisturizing, while oil-in-water formulas feel lighter.If the emulsifier can’t hold the water and oil together for long, the product may separate, which is a common issue known as layering. In such cases, we rely on the second system. Thickening SystemThickeners reduce the...

Besides preservatives and fragrances, this ingredient is also essential to know!

October 2, 2023

Imagine a world without color—it would be dull and lifeless. Color is one of the key sensory indicators, and in food or cosmetics, different colors can lead people to associate various ingredients, flavors, and even effects with the product. Vibrant fruits and vegetables With the rise of the "additive-free" concept, "colorants" have been demonized by consumers. But what exactly are colorants, what risks do they pose, and are natural colorants really safer? 01. Colorants in Cosmetics Colorants are substances added to products to give them the desired color. Based on their source and properties, they are divided into synthetic organic colorants (including dyes, lakes, and pigments), inorganic pigments, and natural colorants. Synthetic Organic Colorants: These mainly refer to dyes, most of which are synthesized from aromatic hydrocarbons, byproducts of coal distillation, hence they are also known as tar dyes. Examples include Amaranth and Tartrazine. Inorganic Pigments: These have strong coloring power, opacity, and durability, such as titanium dioxide and carbon black. There are also pigments like mica and bismuth oxychloride that create a pearlescent effect. Natural Colorants: These are primarily...

Common Colorants Used in Cosmetics

October 2, 2023

Colorants refer to ingredients that can change the color of cosmetics or skin; they are also known as pigments. Depending on their solubility, colorants can be classified into dyes, pigments, and lakes. Dyes are compounds that dissolve in water or organic solvents, coloring the solution. Pigments are compounds that do not dissolve in solvents and color products by being dispersed within the base materials. Common examples include titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, and pearlescent pigments. Lakes are insoluble salts of pigments. The "Cosmetics Safety Technical Specifications" (2015 edition) lists 157 approved colorants for cosmetics (Table 6), with only a handful commonly used. Here are some frequently used colorants in cosmetics: Color Index Number Colorant Generic Name Color Colorant Generic Chinese Name Usage Scope CI 77891 PIGMENT WHITE 6 White Pigment White 6 (Titanium Dioxide, TiO2) All Cosmetics CI 77491 PIGMENT RED 101,102 Red Pigment Red 101, 102 (Iron Oxide, Fe2O3) All Cosmetics CI 77492 PIGMRNT YELLOW 42, 43 Yellow Pigment Yellow 42, 43 (FeO(OH).nH2O) All Cosmetics CI 77499 PIGMENT BLACK 11 Black Pigment Black 11 (FeO+Fe2O3) All Cosmetics CI...

What thickening agents are used in cosmetics?

October 2, 2023

Xanthan gum, AVC thickener, and high-molecular cellulose, among others. Thickeners can be classified into three types: natural (like xanthan gum), semi-natural (like cellulose ethers), and fully synthetic (like polyacrylamide). Cosmetic thickeners must meet the following criteria: high safety, colorless, tasteless, and odorless. They should have good stability, not degrade, decompose, or be affected by external factors like light, heat, or microorganisms, and should have good shelf life. They must also dissolve well and be easy to handle. Thickeners are commonly added during the manufacturing of cosmetics. The main ingredient of a thickener is typically water-soluble polymers. These polymers can swell in water to form gels, so they are used in many cosmetics as binders, thickeners, suspending agents, and co-emulsifiers. Cosmetic thickeners, specifically those using inorganic salts like sodium chloride, are not only applied in cosmetics but also in daily chemical products and surfactant solutions. They are highly effective in thickening. These thickeners are non-toxic, odorless chemical products that don’t affect the skin, with a wide pH application range.

16 Common Thickeners in Face Masks

16 Common Thickeners in Face Masks

October 2, 2023

Thickeners, as the name suggests, increase viscosity, giving liquids a certain thickness to create a uniform and stable system, enhancing suspension. Thickeners are the backbone and essential foundation of various cosmetic formulations, crucial for a product's appearance, rheological properties, stability, and skin feel. By selecting commonly used and representative thickeners, preparing different concentrations of aqueous solutions, and testing their viscosity, pH, and other physical and chemical properties, we can conduct sensory evaluations on appearance, transparency, and multiple skin feel indicators during and after use. This leads to the identification of 16 common thickeners found in face masks. Ladies, check if any of these ingredients are in the face masks you use! If you know of other thickeners, feel free to comment and share!

What are the categories of cosmetic thickeners?

October 2, 2023

Thickeners serve as the backbone and core foundation of various cosmetic formulations, playing a crucial role in the product's appearance, rheological properties, stability, and skin feel. Selecting commonly used and representative thickeners, preparing different concentrations of aqueous solutions, testing their viscosity, pH, and other physical and chemical properties, and conducting sensory tests on multiple skin feel indicators both during and after application can provide useful references for cosmetic formulation design. 1. Types of Thickeners Many substances can serve as thickeners. Based on molecular weight, there are low-molecular-weight and high-molecular-weight thickeners. Based on functional groups, there are electrolytes, alcohols, amides, carboxylic acids, esters, and more. Below is a classification of thickeners according to cosmetic ingredient categories. 1.1 Low-Molecular-Weight Thickeners 1.1.1 Inorganic SaltsInorganic salts are commonly used as thickeners in surfactant aqueous systems. The most common inorganic salt thickener is sodium chloride, which has a noticeable thickening effect. Surfactants form micelles in aqueous solutions, and the presence of electrolytes increases the micelle association number, leading to the transformation of spherical micelles into rod-like micelles, thus increasing the system's viscosity. However, excessive electrolytes...

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